۲۴ تیرماه ۱۳۹۶
تیرماه ۹۶ سفری دو هفته ای و خانوادگی به ایتالیا داشتم. قرار بود در این سفر دو سه روزی عازم سوئیس و منطقه سن موریتز بشویم. سفر هر چقدر هم با برنامه ریزی باشد اما خیلی وقتها قسمت های غیر منتظره اش جذاب تر از آب در می آید.
در این سفر هم بازدید غیر مترقبه از شهر Capo Di Ponte و پارک باستان شناسی Seradina که نه حتی نامش را شنیده بودم و نه در موردش مطالعه کرده بودم برایم خیلی جالب و هیجان انگیز بود.
شنبه ۲۴ تیرماه از میلان که خارج شدیم به سمت شهر برگامو حرکت کردیم ، از کنار دریاچه زیبای Iseo گذشتیم و البته توقف کوتاهی هم آنجا کردیم . محو تماشای آسمان آبی و ابرهای پنبه ای و جاده سبز رنگ و زمینه آبی دریاچه شده بودم. هر چه مسیر جلوتر میرفت و جاده ارتفاع میگرفت هوا هم خنک تر میشد. من کاملا در عالم هپروت بودم و اصلا حواسم به گفتگوهای داخل اتومبیل نبود تا اینکه ناگهان کلمه جادویی “سایت باستان شناسی” و ” سنگ نگاره” را شنیدم و از عالم هپروت پرت شدم به عالم خاکی که این سایت باستان شناسی که می گویید کجاست ؟
خیلی دور است ؟ و با تردید پرسیدم که فرصت دیدن سایت را داریم یا نه؟
جواب مثبت همسر خواهرم حسابی ذوق زده ام کرد. برای من که از کودکی تاریخ دوران باستان برایم بسیار جذاب بود و پر رمز و راز و به تازگی تقریبا با جدیت بیشتری مشغول مطالعه آن شده بودم این بازدید غیر مترقبه مثل یک جایزه دلپذیر یا یک بستنی شکلاتی خوشمزه بود.
بین راه به سمت شهر کوچک capo di Ponte رفتیم و تابلوهای راهنما را به سمت پارک باستان شناسیSeradina که از سوی یونسکو میراث فرهنگی جهانی اعلام شده است ادامه دادیم. شهر تمام هویت خود را از این محوطه تاریخی گرفته بود از دانشگاه باستان شناسی تا تمام علایم و مجسمه های وسط میادین و نقاشی های دیواری روی ساختمان ها! که همه شکلک های سنگ نگاره ها بودند.
جاده ای که به سمت سایت می رفت در یک میدان گاهی کوچک کنار قبرستان محلی تمام می شد از انجا به بعد تا دروازه ورودی را باید در جاده ای زیبا و سبز و سنگفرش پیاده طی می کردیم. ورودی سایت رایگان بود و در همان ورودی یک ساختمان سنگی بود که درون آن یک سرویس بهداشتی خیلی تمیز بود.
ورودی پارک
این سایت شامل چند محوطه اصلی بود که جلوی هر محوطه توضیحات کاملی روی تابلوهای راهنما به به ایتالیایی، انگلیسی و الفبای بریل نوشته شده بود. کپی سنگ ناره ها هم به صورت برجسته روی تابلوها حک شده بود تا نابینایان هم کاملا درک واضحی از آنها پیدا کنند.
سنگ نگاره ها متعلق به عصر مفرغ ( ۲۰۰۰ ق.م ) و عصر آهن (۱۰۰۰ ق.م ) بودند و شامل مجموعه ای از تصاویر جنگ، دوئل، کشاورزی، شیوه های زندگی، نیایش ها، پرندگانی با تعبیر های متافیزیکی، شکلهای اولیه حروف الفبای اتروسکاهای شمالی ( قومی که در این منطقه زندگی می کرده اند ) و موارد جالب دیگری است که توضیح و شرح آن در این سفرنامه کوتاه نمی گنجد.
از انجا که فرصتمان کم بود مستقیم به دیدن صخره بزرگ یا صخره مادر رفتیم که بر روی آن ده ها نقش از زندگی روستایی، شکارچیان، نیایشگران، انواعی از حیوانات، و جنگ ها دیده می شود. برای رسیدن به این محوطه از مسیر پلکانی پایین رفتیم که با هر پله تپش قلب من از هیجان بالا و بالاتر میرفت. حس اینکه الان به جایی میرسم که اقلا ۴۰۰۰ سال قدمت دارد، و انسانهایی در آنجا گام نهاده اند و آرام آرام مسیر تمدن را ساخته اند ، اینکه چطور زندگی می کردند؟ به چه می اندیشیدند؟ غمهایشان؟ عشقهایشان؟ شادیشان، نبردهایشان چگونه بوده است؟
تابلوهای راهنما
راه های سنگفرش
به پای صخره که رسیدم و اولین نقش را که دیدم حس خیلی خوبی داشتم. حسی مثل رهایی از اسارت از زمان !
کنار صخره بزرگ یا صخره مادر میزی کشویی تعبیه شده بودکه درون کشوهایش سنگی با نقشی کپی برابر اصل نقشهای اصلی ،صفحاتی فلزی حاوی توضیحات نقش به زبان انگلیسی و ایتالیایی و نقش برجسته های فلزی و توضیحات به خط بریل برای نابینایان بود.
کشویی های اطلاعات
از ایده سنگ با کپی برابر اصل خیلی خوشم آمد. یکی از حواس اصلی برای درک جهان پیرامون حس لامسه است . ناخوداگاه انسان دوست دارد تا صخره و نقشها را لمس کرد و با اینکار با ارضای حس کنجکاوی، از نقش اصلی هم در برابر استهلاک بشری حفاظت میشود . آقای فرهیخته ای هم آنجا بود که خودش هم بازدید کننده بود و برای همراهانش توضیح میداد که دورانهای قدیمتر زمین شناسی این منطقه زیر یک یخچال طبیعی به ارتفاع یک کیلومتر بوده است و به همین دلیل صخره ها به این فرم و جنس در امده اند که قابلیت حکاکی دارند و این نقشها در طی قرون متمادی سالم مانده اند.
سنگ نگاره ها
صخره شماره ۱۲
تابلوی راهنما-جنگجویان شکارگر
سنگ نگاره های گوزن شاخ بزرگ
پس از بازدید از محوطه، در همان میدانگاهی ناهار مختصری خوردیم و به راهمان به سوی ارتفاعات آلپ ادامه دادیم .
اطلاعات تکمیلی برای علاقمندان
شرایط بازدید:
ورودی مجموعه رایگان است. مسیر حرکت در آن سنگفرش و نیمه کوهستانی است. در همان ابتدای مسیر یک سرویس بهداشتی خیلی تمیز قرار دارد.
ساعات بازدید تمام ایام هفته از ۹-۱۸ میباشد.
زمان مفید بازدید هم دو الی سه ساعت می باشد.
راههای دسترسی:
راههای دسترسی به پارک از شهر میلان اتومبیل و از طریق جاده ss42 و یا قطار به مقصد شهر ونیز و سپس تعویض قطار در ایستگاه Brescia به مقصد شهر capo di ponte است .
هزینه سفر با قطار از میلان به capo di ponte ۳۲٫۳۰ یورو میباشد.
موقعیت یا location :Strada della Greppa | Cemmo, ۲۵۰۴۴ Capo di Ponte, Italy
تلفن : +۳۹ ۰۳۶۴ ۴۲۱۰۴
وبسایت : http://www.parcoseradinabedolina.it/
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