تجربه سفر بانکوک به آیوتایا با قطار |این روزها گرفتن تاکسی با وجود برنامه هایی چون Grab و Uber به مرحله ای بسیار جالب تر و راحت تر ارتقا یافته است. اما آیا راحت ترین راه همیشه بهترین راه است؟
اسم من ادریس است. به همراه همسرم هانا، بهمن ماه ۹۶ اقامتی یک هفته ای در بانکوک داشتیم. این روزها تایلند یکی از مقاصد بسیار محبوب مردم در فصل زمستان است و تایلند را حداقل ما ایرانی ها کمتر به عنوان کشوری دارای جاذبه های تاریخی کم نظیر می شناسیم.
اما تایلند قرن ها پایتخت فرهنگی جنوب شرقی آسیا بوده است. امپراطوری سیام با مرکزیت شهر سوخته ی آیوتایا که امروزه در حدود ۹۰ کیلومتری شمال شهر بانکوک قرار دارد، به مدت ۴۰۰ سال مرکزیت حکومتی و فرهنگی تایلند،کامبوج،لاؤس و برمه ی کنونی بوده است، که در قرن هفدهم با هجوم برمه ای های تند رو ویران و سوزانده شد. در زمان اوج شکوه، آیوتایا یکی از بزرگترین شهرهای جهان بوده است.
تجربه سفر بانکوک به آیوتایا
امروزه بقایای این شهر سوخته بخشی از عظمت آن زمان را در خود دارند و جز میراث جهانی ثبت شده در یونسکو است.
هتل ما در محله ی ساتورن شهر بانکوک قرار داشت. تصمیم گرفتیم بدون استفاده از تاکسی و با قطار و مردم بومی و ارزان ترین راه از بانکوک به آیوتایا سفر کنیم.
هدف از نوشتن این متن نیز معرفی و تبادل تجربه استفاده از قطار در تایلند است که بسیار مقرون به صرفه و اقتصادی و جذاب است.
تجربه سفر بانکوک به آیوتایا | و بلیط های فوق ارزان قطار!
ایستگاه مرکزی قطار بانکوک در شرق محله ی مشهور China Town قرار دارد. همه ی قطارهایی که به شمال کشور می روند از اینجا حرکت می کنند. بهترین راه دسترسی به ایستگاه مرکزی استفاده از مترو و پیاده شدن در ایستگاه Hua Lamphong است. خوب !! اما ما این کار را نکردیم!
بجای آن بازدید از بازار چاتوچاک را هم در مسیر قرار دادیم و با مونوریل ابتدا آنجا رفته و پس از دیدن بازار آبزیان از ایستگاه بزرگ بعدی در شمال ایستگاه مرکزی ارزان ترین بلیط موجود رو با قیمت باورنکردنیه ۱۴ بات یا ۲۰۰۰ تومن برای ۹۰ کیلومتر راه تهیه کردیم !!!! هر چند بسیار جذاب بود، اما در حین انتظار برای رسیدن قطار به این فکر فرو رفتیم که خدایا با این قیمت قرار است دقیقن سوار چه شویم !!!!؟
تجربه سفر بانکوک به آیوتایا | ایستگاه مرکزی قطار بانکوک
تجربه سفر بانکوک به آیوتایا
مقداری خوراکی خریدیم. ینی در واقع از تنها امکانات موجود که چندتا دسفروش بودن استفاده کردیم. ایستگاه پر بود از مردم بومی و عمومن قشر پایین و روستایی ! تقریبن از معدود خارجی هایی بودیم که آنجا منتظر آمدن قطار بودیم. قطار ۲۰۰۰ تومنی ! خدایا چی می تونست باشه.
سرگرم تماشای ایستگاه و مردم بودیم که یهو یکی از ماموران ایستگاه فریاد زد و ظاهرن گفت قطار فلان جا داره میاد بیایید رو این خط. ما هم بلیط هامون رو نشون دادیم و گفت آره همینه وایسید.
قطار اومد !! خوب بیشتر شبیه فیلم بود تا واقعیت ! واگن های خیلی کهنه و داغون. البته حقیقتش من ازش خوشم اومد چون می تونست هیجان انگیز باشه اما خانمم زیاد احساس جالبی نداشت. البته حق داشت و هوا واقعن گرم بود ! تنها سیستم خنک کننده ی قطار هم پنجره های باز ش بود !!
سوار شدیم و خانمم تونست جا گیر بیاره و نشست من هم وایسادم سر پا که با خالی تر شدن قطار تو چند ایستگاه بالاتر من هم تونستم بشینم. قطار پر بود از دستفروش و دوره گرد ! خیلی هم پر سر و صدا بود. یک و نیم ساعت طول کشید که در ایستگاه خیلی زیبا و تمیز تر آیوتایا پیاده شدیم. کلی لیدر و راهنما اونجا بودن. ازشون نقشه گرفتیم. همه رو خیلی خوب راهنمایی می کردند.
یک مقدار پیاده رفتیم و با دیدن خیابون و ماشین ها به این نتیجه رسیدم که چیزی که تو یوتیوب دیدم با اینجا خیلی فرق داره. اینجا یه سایت تاریخی نیست که دور از شهر قرار داشته باشه بلکه شهر دوباره از نو زنده شده و بقایای تاریخی شهر قدیمی در لابلای خیابان ها و کوچه های این شهر جدید قرار دارند.
تجربه سفر بانکوک به آیوتایا | نقشه بخش تاریخی شهر آیوتایا
قبل از رسیدن و دیدن وسعت شهر، تصمیم داشتیم پیاده از اینجا دیدن کنیم که دیدیم امکان این مساله وجود ندارد و هوا خیلی گرم و فواصل بسیار زیاد اند.
کلی راننده تاکسی و موتور و توک توک یا همون سه چرخه های مشهور تالیند جلومون سبز شدند. قبلن تجربه داشتیم که ابدن شتاب زده عمل نکنیم و همیشه از آخرین ها و بهترین ها سرویس بگیریم.
قیمت ها برای کرایه ی ۲ ساعته از ۶۰۰ و ۷۰۰ بات شنیده می شد که ما طبق شیوه ی خودمان از دقیقن یک سوم قیمت پیشنهادی اون ها شروع کردیم ! و بالاخره تونستیم یه موتور سه چرخ یا همون توک توک رو به مدت ۲ ساعت با قیمت ۳۰۰ بات اجاره کنیم. یعنی تقریبن ۴۵ هزار تومن.البته با راننده طبیعتن. کرایه ی موتور و اسکوتر مقداری ریسک داشت و با توجه به شلوغی مسیر ها چندان جالب به نظرمون نرسید.
تجربه سفر بانکوک به آیوتایا | و این هم توک توک ! که با اجاره ی یکی از این ها میشه خیلی راحت تر و سریع تر شهر رو گشت. البته خوب یک مقدار نا امن و ناراحت !!!
راننده هرجایی که تو نقشه بهش نشون میدادیم ما رو می برد. و منتظر می موند تا برگردیم. برعکس تصور قبلی ما ورود به شهر تاریخی هزینه ای نداره بلکه فقط معابد و موزه ها هرکدام ورودی جداگانه دارند و شما مختارید هرکدام را که به نظر جالب تر است انتخاب و برای بازدید اقدام به خرید بلیط کنید.
قیمت ها عمومن حدود ۴۰ تا ۶۰ بات برای هر نفر بود. اولویت ما دیدن حتمی مجسمه سر بودا در ریشه های درخت بانیان و بودای خوابیده و باقیمانده های تالار اصلی شهر بود که تونستیم بازدید داشته باشیم. در عظمت و زیبایی مکان ها کلمات کم می آورند مخصوصن اگر اهل عکاسی در سفر باشید به جای بسیار بسیار جالبی آمده اید.
تجربه سفر بانکوک به آیوتایا | برخی از معابد راه دسرسی به جاهای عجیب غریب و تنگ و تاریکی رو هم ایمن سازی کردند که بنده با تجربه ی اولی ش دیگه از ادامه نصرف شدم. به علت احساس خفگی شدید !!!! و گرمای طاقت فرسا
تجربه سفر بانکوک به آیوتایا | چاهی که مردم توش سکه می انداختند.چیزی که ما هم مشابه ش رو داریم
تجربه سفر بانکوک به آیوتایا | از مشهورترین مکان های آیوتایا همین مجسمه سر بودا در ریشه درخت بانیان هستش
تجربه سفر بانکوک به آیوتایا
تجربه سفر بانکوک به آیوتایا | برخی از معابد هنوز شکوه خودشون رو حفظ کرده اند.
تجربه سفر بانکوک به آیوتایا | واقعن با صحنه های جالبی مواجه خواهید شد…پر از ریشه های عجیب درخت هاست اون ناحیه
نکاتی که لازم و جالب اند عرض کنم یکی محدودیت پوشش برای خانم ها و اقایان جهت ورود به معابد و مکان های تاریخی است. که با لباس های بسیار کوتاه هم برای خانم و اقا از ورود شما جلوگیری می کنند. و البته لباس موقت برای کرایه وجود دارد.
تجربه سفر بانکوک به آیوتایا | گل معابد باقی مانده و باستانی شهر هنوز هم برای مردم محلی تقدس دارند و عبادت گاه محسوب می شوند.
اشاره کردن با انگشت در تایلند شدیدن از دیدشان ناپسند و نکوهیده است !! این را وقتی قطار از نزدیک معبدی بسیار بزرگ و زیبا رد می شد و من با انگشت ان را به همسرم نشان دادم از برخورد و تذکر فرد بغل دستی متوجه شدم !
مقدس ترین بخش بدن در فرهنگ تایلندی و کلن شرق اسیا فرق سر است !! از لمس ان مخصوصن در مورد بچه ها شدیدن اجتناب کنید. با صدای بلند خندیدن و حرف زدن قطعن با تذکر ماموران همراه خواهد بود. قبل از ورود به صحن معابد حتمن کفش هایتان را باید دربیاورید ! راهب های بودایی شدیدن از لمس شدن توسط جنس مونث اجتناب می کنند ! و زیاد با عکس گرفتن میانه ی خوبی ندارند. با ایشان باید کاملن محترمانه رفتار کنید وگرنه نگاه غضب الودشان ناراحتتان خواهد کرد.
تجربه سفر بانکوک به آیوتایا |از جوان ترهاشون میشه با اجازه گرفتن عکاسی کرد ! اونم فقط یه شات فرصت دارید چون بعد از اون بلند میشن میرن ! پس بهترین سعی تون رو بکنید.
پس از تمام شدن بازدید مان توک توک ما را به ایستگاه قطار باز گرداند. بله !! کاملن گرسنه بودیم. همه جا پر است از دستفروش هایی که غذا و میوه می فروشند ! و این شما هستید که انتخاب سختی در پیش دارید !!! بیشتر غذاها خیلی تند و حتی شیرین و اگر مقداری بهداشتی باشید بعید است اعتماد کنید و از خیابان غذا بخورید ! اما خوب ما این کار رو کردیم و مقداری بال مرغ کبابی و برنج خریدیم. که برنج با روش جالبی درست شده بود ! داخل چوب بامبو با کشمش و روی ذغال. با قیمت چیزی حدود ۱۵ هزار تومن. من از طعم هر دو خوشم آمد و خوردم !! مخصوصن بال مرغ واقعن بد نبود.
تجربه سفر بانکوک به آیوتایا | عکس از وعده نهار
بلیط برگشت قطار بهتری بود و نفری ۲۰ بات ما رو ۲ ساعته به بانکوک رساند. این بار در آخرین ایستگاه در ترمینال مرکزی پیاده شدیم. و آنجا بود که قطارهای بسیار شیک و لوکسی هم دیدیم که مقاصد دورتر و شمالی تر کشور می رفتند. همانجا تصمیم سفر بعدی مان با یکی از قطارهای خوب را به شهر شمالی چیانگ مای نیز گرفتیم…
از ایستگاه مترو در پنجاه متری آنجا به هتل برگشتیم و از صرفه جویی حدود هزار و پانصد باتی که استفاده از قطار بجای تاکسی برایمان داشت شب را به یکی از شیک ترین و لوکس ترین رستوران های بانکوک رفتیم !
تجربه سفر بانکوک به آیوتایا | مسیر تقریبن ۲ ساعته که فرصت دیدن واقعیت های تایلند و شرق آسیا رو به شما میده !
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