مرنجاب | سلام دوستان، امیدوارم همیشه شاد باشید و خانه دلتان همیشه گرم و آباد باشه؛ میخام از یک تجربه شیرین و یک خاطره دل انگیز براتون صحبت کنم. خاطره یک سفر رویایی با کلی جاذبه و اتفاقات بی نظیر. خیلی آرامش بخش و بسیار فراموش نشدنی.
فصل پاییز بود و یواش یواش هوا به سمت سردی پیش میرفت. هم خوشحال بودم چون با پاییز کلی خاطرات دارم و هم ناراحت بودم و دلم میگرفت چون از تابستان فاصله میگرفتم؛ چون عاشق سفر و گردشم، توی تابستونها خیلی به سفر میروم. اما هوا که خنک و سردتر میشه یکم سفرها محدودتر میشه و این حقیقت برام خوشایند نیست.
تابستان به شمال و تبریز و زنجان و جاهای دیدنی کرمانشاه سفر کردم که واقعا لذتبخش بود. سه شنبه بود که وقتی در فضای مجازی در حال سرچ کردن اماکن دیدنی بودم ناگهان گشتی زدم به سایتهای گردشگری مربوط به کاشان. کاشان خیلی جاهای جذاب و توریستی داره ولی این بار سراغ چیزی جدید و تازه تر بودم داخل کاشان. به جستجو در مورد بخش کویری این شهر پرداختم. هوای صاف و آرام کویر با اون شبهای پرستارش واقعا مرا وارد رویای یک سفر کویری کرد.
به همین خاطر عزمم را جزم کردم که آخر هفته بروم کاشان و البته از کویر زیباییهای کویر دیدن کنم. بخش کویر مربوط به آران و بیدگل اون چیزی بود که خیلی تعریفش را شنیده بودم. روز پنجشنبه از تهران به قصد سفر به آران و بیدگل وارد اتوبان شدم.
به کمک نرم افزار ویز آران و بیدگل را مقصد گردشگری خودم قرار دادم. حدود ۸ صبح بود که به قم رسیدم و تصمیم گرفتم داخل مارال توقفی داشته باشم و همونجا صبحانه را میل کنم و بعد هم بقیه راه. نان سنگ داغ و کره محلی و نیمروی خوشمزه. چای را که میل کردم ماشین را روشن کردم و به کمک ویز به طرف آران و بیدگل به راه افتادم.
به ورودی آران و بیدگل که رسیدم در مورد بخش کویر این شهرستان و دریاچه نمک از افراد بومی پرس و جو کردم. یکی از افراد آران و بیدگل که جوانی به نام علی بود از کویر و جاذبه های اونجا بیشتر برایم صحبت کرد و پیشنهاد داد تا کویر مرنجاب را مقصد سفرم در این شهرستان قرار دهم. از طریق جی پی اس مسیر را پیمودم و بعد از مدتی نرم افزار مسیریاب، بلواری را بهم نشون داد به نام بلوار ارتش. برای احتیاط بیشتر در مورد صحیح بودن مسیر، از پیرمردی که سوار بر موتور سیکلت بود سوال کردم که کویر مرنجاب از همین مسیره؟
پیرمرد گوژپشت پاسخ داد جوان همین راه را مستقیم برو و به میدانی میرسی که آن میدان تابلو کویر مرنجاب را نشان میدهد و آن مسیر را مستقیم برو. خداحافظی کردم و به راه افتادم. در مسیر تابلو پمپ بنزین را مشاهده نمودم و وارد پمپ بنزین شدم تا با بارک پر و با خیالی آسوده راهی کویر شوم. بعد از تکمیل بنزین به راه افتادم و به همان میدان رسیدم و با مشاهده تابلو کویر مرنجاب وارد مسیر مربوط به آن شدم. جاده خاکی بود اما جاده ای مناسب و محکم. گویی مسئولین شهر به جهت اهمیت کویر مرنجاب برای موضوع گردشگری، راه آن را بسیار مطلوب و آماده کرده بودند تا مسافران به راحتی بتوانند از این مسیر به سمت کویر مرنجاب حرکت کنند.
جاده ای که علاوه بر ماشینهای آفرود، برای خودروهای معمولی و حتی پراید نیز مناسب بود تا بتوانند به کویر سفر کنند. من به همراه خانواده با ذوقم با هیجان به سمت کویر به راه افتادیم. در مسیر تپه های خاکی و شترانی را مشاهده کردیم که بدون ساربان در کویر اطراف مشغول چریدن بودند. شتران از انواع خاکستری رنگ، سفید، یک کوهانه و دوکوهانه بودند که گویی به محیط اطراف آنجا آموخته شده بودند تا هر روز به طور آزادانه و بدون ساربان مشغول چریدن باشند.
پس از چند کیلومتر به کاروانسرای مرنجاب رسیدیم که به گفته راهنمایان محلی همه ساله در فصل سرما پذیرای مسافران و گردشگران فراوانی از تهران و سایر نقاط کشور است که به منظور تفریح و شب نشینیهای دورهمی به اینجا می آیند. ناهار را در همین کاروانسرا میل کردیم و سپس با اندکی استراحت روانه رملهای زیبایی شدیم که رفتن به فراز آنها و فرو بردن پای برهانه در میان ریگهای روان و گرمش، از شنای در دریا و فرو کردن پا در آب زلالش خاطره انگیزتر بود.
درخشش خورشید در کویر و آسمان آبی و بدون ابر آن در این فصل واقعا فراموش نشدنی است. نزدیک غروب شد و برای اتراق شبانه شروع به پرس و جو نمودیم. برخی چادر زدن در همان کویر مرنجاب و خوابیدن با کیسه خواب را پیشنهاد دادند. در این میان، یکی از افراد محلی به نام محمّد مکانی زیبا را به ما پیشنهاد داد که دربردارنده تمامی ویژگیهایی بود که ما به دنبال آن بودیم.
محل خواب راحت، امکان آتش روشن کردن و دور آتش نشستن در دل شب، فراهم بودن امنیت و امکانات رفاهی کامل، دارای لوکیشنهای زیبا عکاسی و نیز محلی مناسب برای رصد ستارگان کویر، همگی در این مکان وجود داشت. محمّد ماشین خود را به راه انداخت و به عنوان معرف و راهنمای محلی ما را به این مکان زیبا رساند. خانه باغی کاملا سنتی و کاهگلی که مردی زحمتکش و کویری درب آن را به روی ما گشود. دربی چوبی شبیه درب قلعه های قدیم با دیوارهای بلند و درختانی سر به فلک کشیده.
او آقا مرتضی بود. با استقبال گرم و فراموش نشدنی آقا مرتضی رو به رو شدیم. گویی که سالهاست با او آشناییم و احساس راحت بودن و صمیمیت در میان ما وجود داشت. انتهای این خانه طاقهایی شگفت انگیز با نمای سنتی چشمان ما را به خود خیره نمود. حوض فیروزه ای رنگ در حیاط و آتشونی حیرت انگیز، به همراه منقل و باربیکیوی سنتی و ایوانی زیبا و سنتی جهت شب نشینی هیجان ما را به اوج رساند.
بعد از چند دقیقه موزیک آرامبخش و آهنگ سنتی در فضا طنین انداز شد. واقعا چه زیبا بود. داخل اتاق وسایل کامل برای خواب با تمیزی هر چه بیشتر توجه ما را به خود جلب نمود. آن سوی اتاقها تنبک چرمی و رادیویی قدیمی به همراه طبل و دایره و اداوات موسیقی سنتی ما را به وجد رساند. کنار دو اتاق این دو اتاق تمیز و مرتّب، آشپزخانه ای سنتی با وسایل سفالی فیروزهای رنگ و دیزوی سنگی حس و حال آشپزی سنتی را در ما به شور آورد.
نگاه به هر قسمتی که میکردیم عزم ما را برای ماندن در این مکان و اقامت شبانه در آن، راسختر میشد. ناگهان صدای الاغ در فضای خانه پیچید که باعث خنده ما شد. آقا مرتضی گفت اینجا الاغ دارد که میتواند به شما سواری هم بدهد و ما خندیدیم. آقا مرتضی گفت که اینجا در اختیار شماست و از فضای آن لذت ببرید. آقا مرتضی گفت این مکان پذیرای مسافرانی است که در فصول کویر به آران و بیدگل می آیند و میخواهند در کنار کویر، از آرامش چنین محیطی و اقامت در آن بهره ببرند. این خانه باغ دقیقا چسبیده به کویر بود. همسایه ما کویر بود و زیباییهای آن.
یعنی درب را که باز میکردی نگاهت به کویر و وسعت بیکران آن میخورد. اما نه کویر مرنجاب بلکه کویری به نام کویر سنبک. واقعا لذت بردیم. منقلی به پا کردیم و گوشت گوسفندی را به سیخ زده و بعد از صرف شام، تا پاسی از شب در کنار چای آتشی و شب نشینی دورهمی در اطراف آتش لذت بردیم.
داخل یکی ازاتاقها، کرسی داغی وجود داشت که کاملا سنتی با پارچه های رنگ سنتی و تزیین شده و کاملا تمیز و خوش رایحه ما را دعوت به یک خواب خوش و دلچسب مینمود. عجب شبی بود. تا ساعت ۱۰ صبح روز بعد خوابیدیم و ساعت یازده به دنبال صبحانه بودیم.
نگاهمان به کاغذی افتاد که داخل آن، منوهای مختلفی از انواع صبحانه های محلی را پیشنهاد میداد. نان محلی و کره و سرشیر و…زیر برگه شماره آقا مرتضی نوشته شده بود که میتوانستیم به ایشان زنگ بزنیم و تقاضای صبحانه و سایر اقلام مورد نیازمان را کنیم. با او تماس گرفتیم (شماره آقا مرتضی و پسر ایشان بدین شرح بود: ۰۹۱۳۰۷۶۶۵۲۲ و ۰۹۱۶۲۳۸۷۰۹۸ ؛ توجه: این شماره را دادم اگر زمانی قصد سفر به کویر را داشتید به این مکان حیرت انگیز و شگفت آور بیایید و گفته های بنده را به طور حقیقی لمس نمایید؛.
من با آقا مرتضی هیچ آشنایی و نسبتی ندارم که بخواهم تبلیغ مکانش را کنم، حیفه بیایید از نزدیک ببینید) ساعت ۱۰ و سی دقیقه زنگ خانه به صدا درآمد و آقا مرتضی و پسرشان به نام میثم، سینی مجلل با انواع فراورده های لبنی و محلی را تحویل ما دادند و گفتند هر چه خواستید فقط تماس بگیرید؛ به شما خوش بگذرد برای ما یک دنیا ارزش دارد. چه مهمان نواز بودند. چه خونگرم و با وجدان. بعد از صرف صبحانه در محوطه خانه چرخیدیم و کلی عکس گرفتیم.
باغچه ای وجود داشت که فقط در آن کاکتوس کاشته بود که واقعا تناقض زیبایی خلق کرده بود چرا که درلا به لای خارهای آن، گلهای بنفش آمیخته با رنگ زرد خودنمایی مینمود. کمی آن طرفتر الاغ به ما نگاه میکرد و حس سواری دادن به ما منتقل میکرد.
در طرفی دیگر فواره آب در وسط حوضی بزرگ. در طرفی دیگر آلات و اوات قدیمی و عتقیه جاتی که با الگو و نظم خاصی در کنار هم چیده شده بودند. در طرفی دیگر دکوراسیونی قرار داشت مخصوص عکاسی که در آن چرخ چاه و طناب و سطل آب متجلی شده بود. از همه زیباتر تنوری سنتی بود که ما را به هیجان آورد تا خودمان برای ناهار نان بپزیم.
با آقا مرتضی تماس گرفتیم و تقاضای آرد نمودیم تا خودمان نان پختن را تجربه کنیم. آقا مرتضی گفت که دامادم در پخت نان تبحر دارد. داماد ایشان به نام آقا رسول یونسی تشریف آوردند و ضمن یاد دادن طریقه پخت نان، با توضیحات خود ما را با منطقه آران و بیدگل و جاذبه های کویر آن آشنا نمودند. کلی عکس گرفتیم. بوی هیزم و نان آتشی همه جا را فرا گرفته بود.
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دوستان دیگرمان مشغول پختن جوجه با آن منقل سنتی نمودند. جاتون خالی عجب لحظات شیرینی بود. الان که دارم مینویسم میخام پرواز کنم و باز برگردم و اون خاطرات برام زنده بشه. خییییلی خوش گذشت. ناهار را که خوردیم برای برگشتن به سمت تهران آماده شدیم و حدود ساعت ۱۷ رهسپار جاده شدیم.
در ادامه تعدادی از عکسهای این مکان زیبا را براتون قرار دادم. کویر واقعا خوش گذشت. حتما به کویر سفر کنید به ویژه در پاییز و زمستان. کویر برای افرادی که از زندگی شلوغ شهری و استرسهای زندگی شلوغ شهرنشینی خسته شده اند واقعا بهترین دارو و مسکن است. فدای همتون.
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