عبور از گذرگاه های نایالان و لالونگ لا
هوا کاملا تاریک بود و اثری از سپیده سحرگاهان هم نبود که میما و راننده هاش، کل هاستل رو رو صدا انداختن و در همه اتاق ها رو زدن و خبر ترک منزلگاهی رو دادن که هنوز ساعاتی از رسیدنمون بهش نمی گذشت…به سختی خودمون رو از لابه لای پتوها بیرون کشیدیم و تو خواب و بیداری و سرمای هوا، کوله های نیمه باز رو بستیم و عزم مسیری کردیم که قرار بود ما رو تا شیگار(Shegar) به مسافت تقریبی ۲۵۵ کیلومتر از ژانگ مو پیش ببره، مسیری که نیم ساعت اولش تو خواب و بیداری و تاریکی مطلق هوا گذشت، ولی با عبور از شهر کوچیک نیالام(Nyalam) در ارتفاع ۳۷۵۰ متری که حدود ۳۵ کیلومتری از ژانگ مو فاصله داشت، خواب از سرمون پرید و هوا هم کم کمک رو به سپیدی و روشنی گذاشت، فرصتی تا خودمون رو به دور از منطقه جنگلی مرزی و در میون تبتی ببینیم که انتظارش رو داشتیم، زمین های خشک و بدون درخت و کوههای سر بر آسمان نهاده اون، کوههایی که عموما از برف سفید روی اونها می شد حدس زد که قد و قامتی بیشتر از ۶ هزار متر دارن… جاده ای که قدم به قدم زیبا و زیباتر می شد و عظمتی که لحظه به لحظه تو اون سحرگاهان نمایان و نمایان تر می شد…
و اما صبحگاهان و لذت درک نور بود که در آنجا بیشتر مفهوم پیدا کرد، انعکاسی بود بس زیبا از نور آفتاب که بر بدنه کوههای استوار این زیبا بام دنیا می نشست و بدن برف رو به آرامی نوازش می داد و نتیجه اون نمایشی بی بدیل از کوههایی بود که چون چشمه ای جوشان از نور خودنمایی می کردند و رنگ هایی که لحظه به لحظه تغییر می کردند و بهت و سکوتی که از عظمت خلقت خدا در چشمان مبهوتمان در اون طلوع رویایی موج می زد…
بی اختیار یاد شعر زیبای سیاوش کسرایی افتادم: نیایش را دو زانو بر زمین بنهاد…به سوی قله ها دستان ز هم بگشاد… برآ ای آفتاب ای توشه امید… برآ ای خوشه خورشید… تو جوشان چشمه ای، من تشنه ای بی تاب… برآ سر ریز کن تا جان شود سیراب…
با روشن تر شدن هوا به سمت گذرگاه نایالان(Nayalam Pass) که در ارتفاع ۳۸۰۰ متری قرار داشت ادامه مسیر دادیم و حدودای ساعت ۸ صبح به گذرگاه رسیدیم، اصولا اصطلاح گذرگاه در مناطق کوهستانی اینچنینی به بلندترین نقطه مسیر باز شده در دل یه رشته کوه گفته می شه که امکان عبور از اون وجود داره. و اما این گذرگاه نایالان جایی بود که برای اول بار انبوهی از پرچم های عبادت یادعا(Prayer Flags) رو می دیدیم که به صورت خاصی، روی سر جاده و گذرگاه و تابلوی اون رو پوشونده بودن و منظره زیبایی رو به وجود آورده بودن که خاص بودائیان و به خصوص تبت و مردمانش بود، اگر چه در حین مسیر و حتی در نپال هم مشابه این پرچم ها رو به صورت پراکنده دیده بودیم..
و اما این پرچم های عبادت که نشانه ای از صلح و مهرطلبی بودائیان تبت است، بر سر در و بام خانه ها و همچنین در معابد و حتی بر سر درختان و قله کوه ها و ارتفاعات به اهتزاز در می آن و تبتیان معتقدن وجود اونها باعث پراکنده شدن مهرورزی و محبت و صلح در سراسر سرزمین و محیط عبادت و زندگیشون خواهد شد.
عموما این پرچم ها در ۵ رنگ هستن که هر رنگ نشانه ای از چیزیست، رنگ زرد نشانی از زمین دارد و رنگ قرمز سمبلی برای آتش است، رنگ آبی هم آسمان رو نمایندگی می کنه و همینطور رنگ های سفید و سبز به ترتیب سمبلی برای هوا و آب هستند. البته عموما روی این پرچم ها نوشته هایی به مضامین دعا و گاه عکس هایی از بودا نیز وجود داره و با گذشت زمان و فرسوده شدن این پرچمها، مرتبا عوض می شن. البته ترتیب قرار گرفتن این رنگ ها در کنار هم مهمه و از چب به راست، رنگ های آبی، سفید، قرمز، سبز و زرد رو قرار می دن و بر اساس طب سنتی تبتی، معتقدن قرار گرفتن موزون این پنج رنگ در کنار یکدیگر در قالب پرچم های عبادت، هماهنگی روحانی و سلامتی جسمانی رو به همراه خواهد داشت.
در کنار گذرگاه نایالان و البته سایر توقفگاه ها در تبت، عموما تعدادی از کولی های تبتی و مردم محلی حضور دارن تا صنایع دستی ناچیزی به مسافرین راه بفروشن یا اینکه خرده پولی طلب کنن و گاه این ماموریت گدایی رو به بچه های معصومشون واگذار می کنن، بچه هایی که گاه از خشکی هوا و آفتاب تبت، پوستی تیره و گاه ترک خورده داشتن و صورت ها و موههای به هم چسبیده ای که گویا سالها رنگ و بوی آب به خود ندیده بود، البته ظاهرا ارتفاع زیاد سرزمین تبت هم باعث می شه که مردمان این سرزمین کمتر عرق کنند و کمتر به پدیده ای به اسم حمام نیاز پیدا کنند!
البته ساعاتی بعد با چشمان خود شاهد بودم که جوون تبتی با چه وسواس و دقتی در گوشه ای حمام می کرد و در واقع مهر ردی می زد بر ادعایی که معتقده تبتیان تنها سه بار در زندگی و آن هم در زمان تولد، مرگ و ازدواج حمام می کنن!!
پس از وقفه ای حدودا ۱۵ دقیقه ای، به سمت رشته کوههای زیبای دیگری در دل هیمالیا رهسپار شدیم که گذرگاه لالونگ لا (Lalung La Pass) به ارتفاع ۵۰۸۲ متر، بلندترین نقطه عبوری مان بود!
هیجان انگیز بود عبور از جاده ای در ارتفاع بالای ۵ هزار متر از سطح دریا! هیجانی که در هیچ کجای دیگری از دنیا امکان تجربه کردنش برایمان وجود نداشته و نداره و اصولا در این ارتفاع جاده ای ساخته نشده یا حداقل من بی اطلاعم، هیجانی که خود به تنهایی قادر بود راه نفس رو بند بیاره، چه برسه به اینکه کمبود اکسیژن شدید اون ارتفاع هم باهاش همراه و همگام بشه. به خصوص که برای هم ارتفاعی زمانی رو صرف نکرده بودیم و خیلی سریع به ارتفاعات بالا رسیده بودیم و بدن هنوز خودش رو تطبیق نداده بود..
در این میون تلاش بعضی از دوستان در تندتر نفس کشیدن و نوشیدن آب زیاد و خوردن قرص برای جبران کمبود اکسیژن و گاها سردردهای خفیف و عمیقشون هم قابل توجه بود، به هر حال بیشتر از ۲۰ دقیقه اونجا نموندیم. سرخوش و خوشحال از حضور در فلات تبت، رهسپار و سرازیر جاده ای زیبا شدیم که با کوه های سفید برفی احاطه شده بود و قرار بود تحفه ای چون چشم انداز اورست بی همتا رو بهمون هدیه بده…
پایانی بر هفت روز دیگر در تبت، خرداد ۹۱
و باز هم زیبا سرزمین اعجاب انگیز تبت و پرسه ای هفت روزه بر زیبا بام دنیا به پایان رسید، سفری که در میان ناباوری، درست سه روز قبل از بسته شدن دوباره مرزهایش، مقدماتش فراهم شد و گروه سیزده نفره ما که با عشق پا بر این سرزمین پر معنا گذاشت و کوله پشتی هایی که پر ز تجربه و خاطره بازگشتند و خوش به حال دوستان دوستی که معنویتی عمیق از این سرزمین با شکوه با خود به سوغات آوردند.… .
و این هم دلنوشته یکی از همسفرانمون در پروفایل فیس بوکش:
سه روزی میشه که از سفری بی نظیر و پر هیجان برگشتم. سفری به سرزمین اسرار آمیز تبت و البته نپال که مدت خیلی کوتاهی در اون اقامت داشتیم.
در این سفر چشمم از دیدن زیبایی های بی نظیر طبیعت سیراب شد. آسمون آبی بی انتها، سرسبزی جنگل های روییده برصخره ها، ستیغ کوهای سر به فلک کشیده ، آبشارهای چشم نواز ، دریاچه های زیبای مقدس ، رودهای خروشان و پر آب ، چکادهای با بلندای بالای هشت هزار ، جاده های مرتفع بالا…ی پنج هزار ، معابد قدیمی با هزارتوهای مقدس و هزاران زیبایی بی نظیر دیگه ما رو در مدت اقامتمون در تبت ، شادمان و شگفت زده کرد. تبت با آیین کهن چندهزار ساله اش ، با بوداها و دالای لاماها و پانچی لاماها و مانک هایش ، با اسطوره و افسانه و چرخ های دعایش ، مجسمه های عجیب و غریب و گاه غول پیکرش و مردم ساده ی لبخند به لبِ معتقدش ، میزبان متفاوتی برای من بود. به ویژه لحظه دیدن بام دنیا ، اورست زیبا بسیار با شکوه و هیجان انگیز بود.
سپاس، زندگی، سپاس…
و البته که هر پایانی را آغازیست…
از بخش جدید ترین مطالب بازدید کنید.
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