ونیز کوچک یا کیوجا Chioggia
نوروز ۱۳۹۶ را ایتالیا بودم و محل استقرار دایم مان در میلان بود . سفرنامه زیر یک سفر یک روزه به ونیز کوچک و تجدید دیدار با دوستی قدیمی است.
ونیز کوچک یا کیوجا بندری کوچک در استان ونتوی ایتالیا و دقیقا روبروی ساحل ونیز است.
صبح زود در یک هوای شدیدا بارانی پیاده از خانه عازم مترو شدیم. خوبی شبکه حمل و نقل ریلی ایتالیا این است که تمام شبکه شهری و بین شهری و استانی کاملا به هم متصل است. با مترو به ایستگاه قطار مرکزی یا چنتراله رفتیم و آنجا سوار قطار سریع السیر فرچاروسا (Frecciarossa)به مقصد نهایی ونیز شدیم. قطارهای فرچاروسا از سریع السیرترین قطارهای اروپا است. تا پادوا را در دوساعت طی می کند و ابتدای سفر تا دریاچه گاردا را خوابیدیم. بقیه راه هوا ابر و آفتاب رنگین کمان در آسمان و مسیر سبز و دیدنی بود. در ایستگاه پادوا جانکارلوی مهربان منتظرمان بود. ابتدا برای صرف قهوه به کافه قنادی بیازه تو (Biasetto)که استاد و مسترشف اول ایتالیا است رفتیم. از آنجا به تماشای صومعه و کلیسای کوچک اما دنج و قشنگ ماریا دلاگراتزیه رفتیم و بعد برای ناهار به منزل جانکارلو رفتیم.
منزل جانکارلو پر از روح زندگی و عشق او به همسر درگذشته اش و عاطفه سرشار پدری به دخترش بود. جانکارلو برای ناهار ریزوتو با سبزی صحرایی آماده کرده بود. بعد از ناهار عازم کیوجا یا ونیز کوچک شدیم که بندری کوچک روبروی ونیز بود و تمام المانهای شهر ونیز را در ابعاد کوچکتر داشت. اولین برج ساعت دنیا هم در این بندر ساخته شده بود.مردم این بندر کوچک به خاطر اینکه مردانشان دایم به دریا می رفتند در هر کوچه و گذری نمازخانه های کوچک برپاکرده بودند. چیزی که برای من جلب توجه می کرد نوع رفتار آنها بود. شلوغ پر سر و صدا و بلند و با فریاد حرف می زدند و شوخی می کردند و همدیگر را صدا می زدند. از این طرف پل به آن طرف پل سوت می کشیدند و هوی های گویان اسم همدیگر را صدا می زدند.
اولین برج ساعت دنیا در این بندر بنا شده است. امکان بازدید برج تا بالای آن با یک و نیم یورو بود که البته به خاطر بادی که می آمد ما از خیرش گذشتیم. داخل برج مسوول آن با صبر و حوصله در مورد تمام اشیایی که داخل اتاقک آن بود توضیح داد از نمادهای خانوادگی شهر تا ساعتی صد و پنجاه ساله که خراب شده بود و تکنسین های کیوجایی آن را تعمیر کرده و راه انداخته بودند. سپس قدم زنان تا ساحل رفتیم. آن سوی ساحل خشکی باریکی دیده میشد که ونیز بود. پلها و ساختمانهایی که بر روی کانالهای شهر بنا شده بود عینا مانند ونیز بود.
کوچه های تنگ و باریک بندر من را دایم یاد ترانه کوچه تنگه بله!عروس قشنگه؟بله! مینداخت. گویا تا همین سی چهل سال پیش اهالی به شغل شریف قاچاق سیگار از اروپای شرقی مشغول بودند و برای فرار از دست پلیس و گمرک از پشت بامها فرار می کردند. چند جا هم پرچم مشکی دزدان دریایی را دیدم که نشد عکس بندازم. کلا این بندر فضای مناسبی برای لوکیشن فیلمهای تعقیب وگریز هالیوودی داشت. از کلیسای کوچکی هم بازدید کردیم به نام عیسی ناصری پادشاه یهودیان که در آن صدای دعا و نیایش پخش میشد
بعد از اتمام بازدید از شهر قهوه و شکلات گرمی خوردیم و به سمت ایستگاه بازگشتیم که هر چه از زیبایی مسیر بگویم کم گفته ام. شما فکر کن متل قو قبل از دست اندازی زمین خوارها و شلوغ شدنش. یک شمال تر و تمیز و خلوت!!!
پ.ن : برای دست یافتن به اطلاعات جامع تر راجع به این شهر کوچک کلمه CHIOGGIA را جستجو کنید.
پ.ن ۲: اگر مستقیم از میلان تا خود کیوجا قطار بگیرید باید در ایستگاه پادوا قطار خود را عوض کنید. هزینه رفت و برگشت با توجه به ساعت حرکت و نوع قطارها از ۶۲ یورو تا ۳۴ یورو متغیر است
پ.ن ۳: توصیه می کنم حتما گشتی در خود پادووا هم بزنید. دیدنی های این شهر به خصوص نمازخانه آن که نقاشی دیواری جوتو ( هنرمند معروف ایتالیایی پیش از میکل انژ و لیوناردو داوینچی) در آن است واقعا دیدن دارد.
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