سفرنامه کشمیر |سفر کشمیر کاملا اتفاقی روی داد. با دوستم حسین برای تعطیلات خردادماه یک تور به مقصد نپال و تبت را در سال ۹۴ برنامه ریزی کرده بودیم و تصمیم داشتم با پایان یافتن برنامه با گروه به ایران بر نگردم و زمینی وارد هندوستان شوم و قسمتهای شمالی هند بویژه کشمیر را دیدن کنم. همه کارها طبق روال پیش رفته بود که در اردیبهشت ماه زلزله ی وحشتناکی کل نپال و قسمتهایی از تبت را لرزاند و خسارات زیادی وارد کرد. عملا اجرای تور در آن منطقه تا مدتها غیر ممکن می نمود.
با حسین مشغول فکر کردن به یک جایگزین بودیم که ناگهان کشمیر به ذهنم خطور کرد. مطرح کردم و حسین هم استقبال کرد و از فردای آن روز بررسی ها در مورد جاذبه ها، مسیرهای دسترسی، اقامت ها، پروازها ویزای هند و غیره آغاز شد.ابتدا سفرنامه هایی که در سایت های مختلف دنیا نوشته شده بود مطالعه شد و سپس تصاویری از هریک از جاذبه های آنها را جستجو کردیم و راه های دسترسی به هریک را بر روی نقشه بررسی نمودیم.
همچنین آیتنری سفرهایی که آژانس های مسافرتی دنیا برای کشمیر داشتند را نیز نگاه کردیم. بر اساس بررسی ها، ایالت جامو و کشمیر دارای یک پایتخت زمستانی به اسم جامو است که از جذابیت خاصی برخوردار نیست و مرکز بخش کشمیر که پایتخت تابستانی است و آب و هوای ییلاقی دارد شهر سریناگر است.
این شهر در حاشیه دریاچه دال لیک قرار گرفته است و شاید وجه تسمیه آن بخاطر شکل دال مانند دریاچه باشد. دور تا دور سریناگر را مناطق کوهستانی فرا گرفته است و تورها به شکل معمول یکی از مسیرهای کوهستانی را در برنامه خود قرار می دهند. این کوهستان ها عبارتند از: گولمارگ، سانمارگ و پاهالگام.
ما تصمیم گرفتیم در غالب سفری کمی طولانی تر از معمول و البته سنگین تر و فشرده تر، از هر سه منطقه بازدید کنیم تا بتوانیم برای سال های بعد که تصمیم داریم تور به آنجا اجرا کنیم یکی را از میان آنها انتخاب کنیم.
مسیر حرکت
مختصری درباره کشمیر
کشمیر منطقه ای کوهستانی است که رشته کوه های هیمالیا، قراقروم و پنجاب را بهم متصل می کند. تا پیش از استقلال هندوستان در سال ۱۹۴۷ یک حکومت پادشاهی با حمایت بریتانیا بر آن حکومت می کرد اما پس از استقلال، توسط سه کشور هندوستان، پاکستان و چین تصرف شد و همچنان هم اختلافاتی بین آنها برقرار است. در حال حاضر ایالت جامو و کشمیر از کشور هند، گیلگیت و بلتستان از پاکستان و منطقه آکسای چین تحت کنترل کشور چین است.
عمده مردم این ناحیه بویژه در محدوده تحت تصرف پاکستان مسلمان هستند. تا پیش از سال ۱۳۳۹ مردم کشمیر بودایی بودند تا اینکه یکی از پادشاهان کشمیر به نام شمس الدین شاه میر به اسلام روی آورد و قوانین اسلامی بر این کشور وضع کرد و مردم کم کم به اسلام روی آوردند.
نقشه کشمیر
روز اول: سلام هندوستان
پرواز با ایرلاین ماهان ساعت ۱۹:۳۰ از فرودگاه امام خمینی بود. صف چک کردن پاسپورت و مهر خروج چنان طولانی بود که یک ساعت و نیم طول کشید تا از آن گذر کردیم و مهر خروج در پاس ما خورد.
با ۴۵ دقیقه تاخیر که معمول همه ایرلاین های داخلی است هواپیما برخواست.
اولین پرواز خارجی ام بود که با ایرلاین ایرانی انجام میشد و تصورم بود که پروازهای ایرانی صندلی های ناراحت و پذیرایی ضعیفی باید داشته باشند که اینطور نبود.
پرواز سه ساعت و ربع طول کشید و ساعت ۱ نیمه شب به وقت دهلی به فرودگاه رسیدیم.
روز دوم: گشت دهلی
فرودگاه دهلی خیلی بزرگتر از انتظار من بود. حدود یک کیلومتر پیمودیم تا به سالنی رسیدیم که پاسپورتها را چک میکردند و مجددا با یک صف طولانی که سمبل همیشگی کشورهای جهان سوم است روبرو شدیم.
یک ساعت و نیم هم این صف طول کشید تا ویزاهای ما چک شوند.
با ترانسپورت خود هتل به هتل که نزدیک فرودگاه بود رفتیم و خوابیدیم.
صبح ساعت ۸:۳۰ صبحانه مفصل هتل را خوردیم.
هرچند که بخاطر تندی بیش از حد همه غذاهای پختنی به روح اجدادشان درود فرستادم.
سپس برای گشت دهلی راهی شدیم. ابتدا از منار قطب بازدید کردیم که حدود سال ۸۰۰ سال پیش در دوره گورکانیان ساخته شده بود و بیش از ۷۰ متر ارتفاع داشت.
سپس به دیدن معبد نیلوفر آبی Lotus Temple رفتیم. این معبد توسط پیروان فرقه بهائیت برای به عنوان پرستشگاهی برای همه ادیان ساخته شده بود. معماری کم نظیر و محوطه سازی زیبا بیش از هر چیزی توجه من را جلب کرده بود.
معبد آکشاردام
از آنجا به معبد آکشاردام رفتیم. این معبد نوساز توسط پیروان فردی به اسم “سوامی نارایان” که فرد مقدسی بوده با هدف جمع آوری خیرات بنا شده بود. سالن های نمایش متعددی هم وجود داشت که در مورد خدایان هندو، اساطیر و افسانه های مربوطه توضیحاتی میداد (به نظر من بهترین بخش این معبد همین قسمت بود) و همچنین محل هایی برای جمع آوری خیرات و نذورات.
از آنجا که چندان علاقه ای به غذاهای تند ندارم برای نهار به یکی از برندهای جهانی غذاهای فست فود به اسم PizzaHut رفتیم که باز هم تندی بیش از حد غذا فغانم را بلند کرد. چاره نبود. باید به این تندی عادت میکردم.
به هتل بازگشتیم و خوابیدیم.
روز سوم: پرواز به کشمیر
صبح گشتی در محوطه هتل زدم. تنوع پرندگان در محوطه حیاط و اطراف استخر هتل جالب توجه بود. کمی ورزش کردم و سپس وسایل را جمع کردم و در ساعت ۱۲:۳۰ به سمت فرودگاه راهی شدیم. پرواز ساعت ۱۵:۳۰ دقیقه با ایرلاین GoAir بود. حساسیت مامورین فرودگاه برای مسایل امنیتی بیش از حد بود.
پرواز به موقع انجام شد و یک ساعت بعد در فرودگاه سریناگر بودیم. تمام طول مسیر که از بالا نگاه می کردم فقط مزارع سرسبز به چشم می خورد. نمی دانستم بخاطر این رونق کشاورزی شان برایشان خوشحال باشم یا بخاطر تخریب جنگل ها برایشان تاسف بخورم.
فرودگاه سریناگر یک فرم پر کردیم که اطلاعات زیادی می پرسید و سپس با گروه ۱۲ نفره ما با سه خودرو ون به سمت دریاچه دالیک که نزدیک شهر بود راه افتادیم.
بیشترین چیزی که توجه من را جلب کرد تعداد بیش از حد نیروهای نظامی و امنیتی در همه جای جاده ها و شهر بود.
رنگ پوست مردم کشمیر روشن تر از قسمتهای جنوبی تر هند است و چشمان زیبا مهمترین ویژگی چهره آنهاست که بعضا دارای چشمان روشن هم هستند.
صدای ممتد بوق که بخش لاینفک رانندگی هندی ها است همچنان به گوش میرسید.
نیم ساعت بعد به دریاچه دالیک رسیدیم. دریاچه ای کم عمق با آبی نسبتا تمیز که جای جای آن درختان چنار و نیلوفر آبی رشد کرده بود. با فاصله کمی از خیابان حاشیه دریاچه، خانه های قایقی house boat پهلو به پهلو قرار داشتند. اسم برخی از آنها بعضا فارسی بود.
سفرنامه کشمیر
سوار قایق های کوچکی به اسم شیکارا شدیم که ۴ نفر ظرفیت داشت و گروه ۱۲ نفره ما توسط سه قایق راهی خانه قایقی مان شدیم.
کلمه شیکارا در زبان کشمیری به معنی شکار است و از زمانی آمده که انگلیسی ها با این قایق برای شکار پرندگان به دریاچه میرفتند و تصور میکردند که بومیان این کلمه را برای این نوع قایق بکار میبرند.
نکته جالب توجه برای من عدم حضور هیچ گونه قایق موتوری در کل دریاچه بود.
سفرنامه کشمیر
وقتی کمی داخل دریاچه پیشرفتیم تازه متوجه زیبایی فوق العاده مناظر اطراف شدم.
دریاچه با کوهستان های مخملی سبز احاطه شده بود و سطح آنرا گلهای نیلوفر پوشانده بود. انواع پرستوهای دریایی و چنگر و حواصیل بر روی برگهای نیلوفرها در جستجوی غذا دیده می شدند و هیچ صدایی جز صدای آنها به گوش نمی رسید.
خانه های قایقی متعددی در اطراف بودند که کاملا از چوب ساخته شده بودند و با ظرافت هر چه تمام تر توسط استادکاران خراط با چوب کنده کاری شده آذین شده بودند.
پس از طی مسافتی حدود یک کیلومتر به خانه قایقی مان رسیدیم. تزیینات داخل آن شگفت زده ام کرد. البته قایق ها درجه بندی دارند و قایق ما بهترین آنها بود و به گفته صاحب قایق ۶ سال درست کردن آن طول کشیده بود.
سفرنامه کشمیر
حدود ۴۰ متر طول و ۶ متر عرض داشت و مانند همه خانه قایقی های دریاچه دالیک یک طبقه بود.
پنج اتاق دو تخته داشت که اتاق انتهایی از بقیه لوکس تر بود.
وسایل را گذاشتیم و به پشت بام قایق رفتیم تا با قهوه کشمیری که نوعی دمنوش متشکل از هل، چای سبز و زعفران بود به همراه کیک خانگی پذیرایی شویم.
سفرنامه کشمیر
شام هم بسیار خوشمزه بود و شامل دال عدس، مرغ پخته شده در پیاز و رب و ادویه و سیب زمینی پخته شده با سبزیجات خشک شده معطر بود. رختخواب ها تمیز و سرویس بهداشتی هم در حد یک هتل چهار ستاره تمیز بود.
کمی در بالکن جلوی قایق نشستیم و آواز خواندیم و سپس به خواب رفتیم.
روز چهارم : کوهستان پاهالگام
صبح ساعت ۸ از خواب بلند شدیم و صبحانه مختصری خوردیم. تعداد زیادی نیلوفر آبی که دیروز موقع رسیدن ما بسته بودند، با طلوع آفتاب باز شده و منظره زیبایی را پدید آورده بودند. نیم ساعت مست نگاه کردن مناظر اطراف بودم و بارها به خودم گفتم این آخرین بار نخواهد بود که اینجا می آیم و دفعه بعد روزها و روزها فقط صرف نگاه کردن این منظره شگفت انگیز و لذت بردن از سکوت آن خواهم کرد.
ساعت ۹:۳۰ از خانه قایقی راه افتادیم و با شیکارا به ساحل دریاچه رفتیم تا سوار ماشین هایی که هماهنگ کرده بودیم بشویم. حدود ۵ ساعت راه داشتیم تا به منطقه پاهالگام برسیم و سپس پیاده روی را شروع کنیم. در بین راه درختان کهنسال چنار و باغات گسترده گردو فراوان به چشم میخورد.
در طول مسیر تعداد بسیار زیادی هندو دیده میشد که از اقصی نقاط هند آمده بودند تا از یک غار بازدید کنند. به این مراسم یاترا گفته میشد که چیزی شبیه مراسم حج مسلمانان بود. بعضی از آنها ماه ها پیاده در راه بودند. باور داشتند که وقتی به غار می رسند آرزوهایشان برآورده میشود. کشمیری ها اصلا از هندوها خوششان نمی آمد و البته حق داشتند.
سفرنامه کشمیر
به دره بسیار زیبای بیتاب رسیدیم و نهار خوردیم. حجم آب رودخانه های خروشان این کوهستان جالب توجه بود. از آنجا به دره چاندای رفتیم که تعدادی یخچال در آن بود که بر روی آنها کمی راه رفتیم و سپس به سمت “آرو ولی” حرکت کردیم و یک ساعتی در دره و کنار رودخانه گشت زدیم و سپس به سمت اقامتگاه قایقی مان بازگشتیم.
در راه برگشت ترافیک سنگینی بود و حدود ساعت ۲۱:۰ به خانه قایقی رسیدیم. برای شام ماهی سرخ کرده و سیب زمینی تدارک دیده شده بود که ادویه مخصوص کشمیر طعم بسیار خوبی به آن داده بود.
روز پنجم: گشت دریاچه دالیک و نگین
به گفته همسفران شب قبل طوفان شدیدی شده بود و حسابی باران آمده بود اما من متوجه نشدم. صبح بسیار هوا لطیف بود. پس از صبحانه حدود ساعت ۱۰ صبح سوار شیکارا شدیم و سه ساعت را در سکوتی دلنشین بر روی دریاچه دالیک گشت زدیم. همه جا یکسره نیلوفر آبی بود و من پس از اندکی عکاسی، لذت بردن از لحظه را فدای لذت بردن آینده کردم و غرق تماشا شدم.
سفرنامه کشمیر
برای نهار به جزیره کوچک چارچنار در وسط دریاچه رفتیم و بیریانی (نوعی برنج که با ادویه و نخود و مخلفات پخته می شود) به همراه خورشتی خوشمزه که این بار به سفارش اکید ما فلفل نزده بودند را خوردیم. به ساحل دریاچه رفتیم و مسجد سفید را بازدید کردیم.
سپس از طریق کانالهای زیبایی که درختان بید سقفی برای آن ایجاد کرده بودند به دریاچه نگین رفتیم. خانه های آجری زیادی در آب ساخته شده بود که ساکنین آن بوسیله قایق تردد میکردند.
سفرنامه کشمیر
در جلوی یک مرکز فروش صنایع دستی توقف کردیم که پارچه کشمیری شال و لباس های رنگارنگ و زیبایی داشت. تنوع رنگها و طرح ها به راستی حیرت انگیز بود و به سختی دو شال با یک طرح و رنگ یکسان یافت می شد. انواع شال اعم از پشمینه، ابریشم، ویسکوز و ترکیب آنها با هم را داشت.
پشمینه نوعی پارچه پشمی بسیار لطیف است که از پشم ناحیه گلوی نوعی بزکوهی در ارتفاعات کشمیر بدست می آید. وقتی به آن دست کشیدم دیدم از پشم ویکونای کشور پرو هم به مراتب لطیف تر است. شال های پشمینه اصل از ۱۰۰ دلار شروع می شوند. البته من شخصا پارچه ترکیبی پشم و ابریشم که البته ارزان تر هم هستند را ترجیح میدهم زیرا دوام بیشتری داشته و مراقبت کمتری احتیاج دارند.
نوعی پارچه خیلی گران قیمت به اسم شاتوش هم وجود دارد که گفته می شود گرانترین پارچه دنیاست و از پشم نوعی آنتیلوپ در هیمالیا تولید میشود.
غروب به خانه قایقی بازگشتیم و به تماشای غروب سرخ فام خورشید مشغول شدم. بازی رنگهای گرم غروب خورشید و انعکاس آن بر آب و برگهای نمناک نیلوفرها به راستی هوش از سر هر کسی میبرد.
تعدادی از همسفران خانم گروه قایقی پارویی را قرض گرفته بودند و تلاشی بی سرانجام برای کنترل قایق میکردند و من در سکوتی ژرفناک فقط به پژواک صدای پاروی آنها گوش میدادم و غرق کشف گذر ذرات نور خورشید از لابلای موهای بلند آنها بودم که چگونه از سیاه به طلایی تغییر رنگ داده بود. شاید دقیقه ای بیش نگذشت اما برای من لذتی چند ساعته بود.
سپس من و حسین و یکی دیگر از همسفران به این تلاش بی سرانجام اضافه شدیم.
سفرنامه کشمیر
پس از غروب حسین به سختی و با پشتکاری که همیشه از او سراغ دارم تعدادی سیخ، یک منقل و ذغال مهیا کرد و جگر گوسفند که از روز قبل خریده بود و در ادویه و سایر مخلفات خوابانده بود را کباب کرد و پذیرایی مختصر اما لذیذی از همسفران انجام داد. سپس با هم به تعریف چند خاطره خنده دار از سفرهای قبل مشغول شدیم تا شام آماده شد.
روز ششم: دریاچه مانسبال و وولار
طبق برنامه قرار بود این روز به منطقه کوهستانی سانمارگ برویم اما خبر رسید که به دلیل بارندگی دو روز قبل کوه ریزش کرده و جاده سانمارگ و گولمارگ مسدود شده است. ظاهراً این یک اتفاق معمولی در این منطقه بود. برنامه را تغییر دادیم و بجای شمال شرق، به شمال غرب و دریاچه های مانسبال و وولار تغییر مسیر دادیم. جاده بسیار خراب بود و از جاده های روستایی ما هم ناهموارتر بود. پس از دو ساعت به دریاچه مانسبال رسیدیم. آب شفافی داشت و دور تا دور دریاچه را گلهای نیلوفر آبی پوشانده بود.
سفرنامه کشمیر
یک ساعتی را بر روی دریاچه قایق سواری کردیم و سپس به سمت شمال غرب ۱۰ کیلومتر پیمودیم تا به دریاچه وولار رسیدیم. این ذریاچه نیز بسیار زیبا بود و نیلوفرهای آبی بسیار بزرگی داشت. سپس از یک جاده کوهستانی که به سمت یک مقبره در بالای کوه میرفت بالا رفتیم که منظره زیبایی از بالا به دریاچه داشت. برای نهار در یک باغ زیبا توقف داشتیم و سپس به یک روستا به اسم “باریبر” رفتیم و وارد خانه یک روستایی شدیم که پیش نماز مسجد روستا بود و ما را به چای و کیک دعوت کرد و کمی آوازهای فارسی که سالها پیش یاد گرفته بود برایمان خواند.
سفرنامه کشمیر
در راه بازگشت دوباره در ترافیک شهر سریناگر گیر کردیم. بوغ های پی در پی ماشین ها حسابی کلافه ام کرده بود. از کنار مسجد جامع سریناگر رد شدیم که گفته میشد هزار سال قدمت دارد. حدود ساعت ۲۰ به محل سوار شدن شیکاراها رسیدیم و یک ربع بعد در خانه قایقی مان در حال استراحت بودیم. در این شب در محوطه جلوی خانه قایقی دور هم گرد آمدیم و با هم کلی آواز خواندیم.
روز هفتم: سانمارگ، بهشتی بر روی زمین
طبق برنامه قرار بود که ساعت ۷ از خواب بیدار شویم و ساعت ۷:۳۰ صبحانه بخوریم و عازم سانمارگ شویم. با صدای رعد و برق و بارش شدید باران بیدار شدم. چنان شدید میبارید که به نظر میرسید جاده سانمارگ دوباره ریزش کند اما با حسین تصمیم گرفتیم که برنامه را کنسل نکنیم.
در بین راه چندین بار نیروهای نظامی جلوی ما را گرفتند و تذکر دادند که راه ممکن است بسته باشد اما ما بازهم ادامه دادیم. باران قطع شده بود که به رود سند رسیدیم و مناظر زیبای کوهستانی شروع شد. رودخانه بخار میکرد و ابر از پشت کوه ها به سمت دره ریزش میکرد. در پس زمینه فقط رنگ سبز بود و صخره های سر به فلک کشیده.
سفرنامه کشمیر
یک ساعت بعد به سانمارگ رسیدیم. از ماشین پیاده شدیم و به سمت دامنه ها بالا رفتیم. مناظر شبیه عکسهایی بود که از کوه های سوییس دیده بودم. حس شیدایی عجیبی داشتم. نمیدانستم ادامه بدهم یا یکجا بنشینم و غرق تماشا بشوم. تعدادی اسب در تپه ی جلوی من بودند و در آرامش کامل مشغول چرا بودند.
سفرنامه کشمیر
نیم ساعتی نشستم و سپس کمی بالاتر رفتم. نسیم خنک کوهستانی، صدای آبهای خروشان سند، آسمان نیمه ابری و منظره کوه های سرسبز روبرو با یخچال های دائمی آن احساسی وصف نشدنی در من ایجاد کرده بود. سه ساعتی در این حال گذشت و سپس سوار ماشین شدیم تا به یک دره دیگر که فضای مناسبی برای نهار خوردن داشت برویم. راه بازگشت اصلا متوجه مسیر نشدم و در حالی که چشمم را بسته بودم تنها مناظر کوهستان سانمارگ از ذهنم میگذشت.
سفرنامه کشمیر
غروب به سریناگر رسیدیم و گروه را برای بازدید از مسجد جامع که قدمتی ۶۵۰ ساله داشت و توسط نوه شاه جهان ساخته شده بود بردم. سپس از گلشن همدانیه که باغ و مقبره ای متعلق به نواده سر سلسله نقشبندیه بود بازدید کردیم و پس از خرید ادویه و کمی صنایع دستی به خانه قایقی بازگشتیم.
سفرنامه کشمیر
شب وقتی به خانه قایقی بازگشتیم با حسین تصمیم گرفتیم که برای سالهای آینده تمرکز برنامه را بر روی منطقه سانمارگ بگذاریم.
روز هشتم: خداحافظی با بهشت
حدود ساعت ۸ صبح بیدار شدیم و مثل همیشه با غذاهای لذیذ که طعم های جدید اما بسیار خوبی داشتند پذیرایی شدیم. پس از صبحانه برای خرید صنایع دستی و سوغاتی گشتی در شهر زدیم و سپس از باغ های کشمیری بسیار زیبا به نامهای شالیمار و موغال بازدید کردیم و برای نهار مجددا بازگشتیم.
سفرنامه کشمیر
پس از نهار کل تیم پذیرایی شامل صاحب خانه قایقی، قایق رانان شیکاراها، آشپز و دستیارش و راهنمای محلی پیش ما آمدند و از حضور ما تشکر کردند. ما هم از زحمات آنها تشکر و قدردانی کردیم و سپس راهی فرودگاه شدیم.
سفرنامه کشمیر
طول پرواز حدود ۱٫۵ ساعت بود و پس از رسیدن به فرودگاه دهلی حدود ۶ ساعت تا پرواز بعدی ماهان به ایران زمان داشتیم که باید در فرودگاه سپری می کردیم. مجددا با چک های امنیتی دیوانه کننده و تکراری فرودگاه دهلی مواجه شدیم. برایم جالب بود که در دهلی اگر پرینت بلیت خود را نداشته باشی نمی توانی وارد فرودگاه بشوی.
در نهایت ساعت ۲ نیمه شب به سمت ایران راهی شدیم و ساعت ۴:۳۰ صبح با کلی خاطره خوب به کشور ایران بازگشتیم.
اگر شما هم به کشمیر سفر کرده اید، سفرنامه کشمیر خودتون رو به اشتراک بگذارین.
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